Beneath the Waves

Gosport, on the south coast of England, has been a Navy town for centuries. Driving into town I passed signs pointing to the "Institute of Naval Medicine". Not many towns have one of those. What is so special about "Naval Medicine" as opposed to ordinary doctoring? Well, you have all the problems associated with deep sea diving. And the risks of radiation contamination from the reactor in your nuclear submarine. See Institute of Naval Medicine.

Which brings us to the reason for my visit - the Submarine Museum. Not many towns have one of these either and what an enthralling place it is.

In fact Gosport is far more interesting than you might suspect. The main roads and most of the side roads look like the dreariest and most nondescript sections of Reading or any other small to medium sized English town.

But then I passed Holy Trinity Church. The exterior is eye catching enough, with its free standing column of a clock tower separate from the main church.

But the interior is wonderful, with a light filled nave and beautiful decoration.



In front there is a tree in full glorious blossom and to the right a most handsome Georgian house which used to be the vicarage. To judge from the expensive motors outside, this very desirable residence now has more affluent tenants. And immediately to the right of this house was a gate with the baffling name board: "Bastion No 1". Effectively it is a public park. Obviously it is not the only "military" park in the world - think of Battery Park in New York or Fort Canning Park in Singapore. But at least they put "Park" in the title, while the Gosport local council were content to leave this little patch of green with its stark military name, reminding the public of all the Bastions which protected Gosport.

A hundred yards behind the church are two huge slabs of apartments: ugly as mortal sin, erected by developers with the imagination of a mentally retarded flea. It made this little 1696 oasis all the more amazing and unexpected. You might expect it in a historic town in Germany or Italy, but not in functional, military Gosport. To add to the enjoyment, the parish website explains how the ministers of this Anglican church have been of the High Church persuasion for 150 years and spread "catholic" (with a small "c") teaching in the town. See http://www.holytrinitygosport.co.uk/welcome

This little gem is only a few minutes drive from the Submarine Museum. This institution is divided between an ultra-modern building, a very shabby entrance area in the course of reconstruction, various tacky wooden/semipermanent structures and an actual submarine "HMS Alliance".



This stands clear of the water on massive supports and the completely exposed expanse of its hull makes the rusty bits only too clear. But the interior lived up to my expectations of a traditional diesel-electric submarine: horrendously cramped, minimal comfort for the crew. There were levers, wires, piping, switches, dials, consoles and mysterious bits of machinery everywhere, low hanging objects to hurt the tall like me and irregular floors to trip up the unwary.

Our elderly guide had served on "Alliance" and was full of submariner stories. He ran soundtracks to demonstrate the overwhelming noise from the diesel engines and the bowel-loosening sound of a surface warship approaching and dropping depth charges. Obviously they couldn't reproduce the violent shaking of the submarine or the smell of terror as the crew braced for the attack and possibly the last seconds of their lives. Of course they couldn't reproduce all the other smells of submarine life: the cooking, diesel oil, toilets, body odours (no washing, laundry or shaving for weeks on end). He commented that when a submariner took the bus home after a tour of duty he was guaranteed a seat well to himself.......

Outside "HMS Alliance" on the quayside there is a memorial to all the Royal Navy submarines which have been lost. It is poignantly and appropriately headed "Resurgam" (I will rise again). This was also the name of an early submarine. One of the few I recognised was "HMS Thetis". It is a sign of how secret and uncelebrated much of our submarine warfare was. Thetis was not even lost in battle; she sank ignominiously in Liverpool Bay, close to shore, in 1939 before the outbreak of war. A guy opened the interior cap of a torpedo tube not realising that the other end was also open. 99 men died. George Orwell, writing during WW2, described how upset he had been at the highly publicised sinking of Thetis and the desperate attempts to save the crew. He had hardly been able to eat for days at the thought of all those young men suffocating in the cold and darkness of their steel tomb. Now he noted how every one rejoiced when a German U-boat was sunk and fifty fine young men died similarly.



Inside "HMS Alliance" there was a quotation from a WW2 British admiral - "In submarines there is no room for error. You are either alive or dead." Too true. There is limited buoyancy, limited space to evacuate a flooded or burning area, limited oxygen, limited battery power, limited space for spare parts or tools to fix any failures.......

Yet there was space for a most unexpected item. The new museum building had a miniature organ on display. In submarines access space is desperately tight. Every opening is a point of weakness in the pressure hull and so they are kept small. The 21" torpedos could just about slide down through the hatch into the tube area. Similarly this tiny organ could just about fit through the hatch. Until the 1980s such an instrument was standard issue in submarines for religious services. I don't know how often they were used, but the fact that they were permitted in such a cramped vessel speaks volumes about earlier generations' priorities.

Other aspects of British military culture were revealed in the interviews with crew members on a modern nuclear submarine. Obviously the meals are much better nowadays. The "Alliance" veteran described the green bread, tinned food and how they had two choices for dinner - "You ate it or you didn't eat it". With a nuclear reactor you have effectively limitless power to provide refrigeration, water and clean air, so the chefs can be more adventurous and stale food smells are dispersed by the air conditioning. Also an officer was asked about the privileges of rank beneath the waves. "Well, we have a steward to look after us...." Holy Cow. We are taking servants into battle? I as almost as stunned many years ago when a TV documentary showed a steward serving coffee to officers relaxing in the plush wardroom of "HMS Illustrious". But "Illustrious" is an aircraft carrier, almost as big as a liner.

Also there were several signs that even such a functional and serious museum is not immune to the charms of showbiz. The torpedo section obviously contained a long exhibition on Robert Whitehead, the British inventor of the torpedo. A Royal Navy Admiral H.J May commented in 1906: "But for Whitehead, the submarine would remain an interesting toy, and little more". Whitehead married an Austrian lady. One of their granddaughters, a very lovely girl, was invited to the launching of a new Austrian submarine in 1912. She caught the eye of its handsome and courageous commander, one Captain von Trapp. They married and had seven children, but she tragically died of scarlet fever, leaving the youngsters motherless. For the rest of the story, see the"Sound of Music". One display room celebrated the submarine in literature and movies. Obviously Jules Vernes' "20,000 leagues under the sea" and its 1954 movie version held pride of place, but Sean Connery's features adorned the poster for "Red October" and other undersea films showed our unending fascination with this alien and desperately dangerous environment.